© Copyright 2004-2017 Jarbeth's Kennel. All rights reserved.
At Jarbeth's Kennel -- where we put a puppy in your arms and a smile on your face.
1) What is a BoloNoodle?
2) I hear that there are a lot of Puppy Mills in Missouri. Can you reassure
me that you are not a puppy mill?
I can assure you that we are not a puppy mill. In fact, in 2013, we were told by our state
inspector that Jarbeth's Kennel already met the new laws and requirements for 2016.
Do you know what a puppy mill is? The animal
activists have not even given a definition for the term "puppy mill." They have purposely NOT given a definition to the term
in order to lump all breeders into that category. If you ask an animal activist, a puppy mill is anyone who breeds dogs, yet
the pictures they post are of sickly, malnourished puppies who are raised in a small cage, are not socialized and some can't even
walk on the ground. Ask people in the dog industry and a puppy mill is a substandard kennel, one that is not state and/or government
licensed and inspected. The kennel that raised a puppy that looks like the ones in the "puppy mill" ads would be shut down immediately
IF they were licensed and inspected. The animal activists don't want you to know that.
For more information on puppy mills,
Frequently Asked Questions...
3) Is there anything I need to know that will help my puppy thrive?
1. Puppies need 16-20 hours of sleep per day.
2. Puppies should
have food and water available to them 24/7.
3. Gentle treatment -- Puppies should not be unsupervised with children and other animals.
Like human babies, puppies need to be held and like all babies, care and handling is very important. No poking, tossing, swinging
4. Crate training: Unsupervised pups should BE IN THEIR CRATE, so they feel safe and secure and reduce training stress.
5. In the crate the puppy should have safe toys and all toys should be at least 3 times larger than the puppy's mouth is wide.
The puppy should NEVER have a collar on while in the crate, they can accidentally hang themselves.
6. During supervised play, give
puppies soft latex toys, rope bones, and non-digestible bones. Do not give them rawhide bones. If a rawhide is chewed
on for a long period of time, it can get very soft and wet from the puppy's saliva. When it gets soft and small, it can be swallowed
and potentially cause bowel obstructions.
A puppy needs chew toys only while TEETHING, and at no other time. Once all the baby
teeth are out, he/she no longer needs the chew toys.
7. Puppies thrive and learn best when they are on a schedule and have consistent
expectations. Sudden changes in food or environment can play havoc with their digestive system.
See Recommended Products page
for a photo of a crate that will work great for small breed dogs.
4) Why are some of the puppies in the same litter priced differently?
Or why are some of your dogs so expensive?
In the dog breeding world, females are generally more expensive (due to demand) than males.
At Jarbeth's Kennel, a puppy might be priced differently based on size, gender, markings, and the overall quality of each puppy.
The rarity or availability of the breed also affects the price of some of our dogs. A rare color or markings that perfectly
meet the standard will also raise the price, likewise, color or markings that are not within the standard will reduce the price.
All of our dogs are purebred (unless otherwise advertised), but some are pet quality while others are are show quality.
The price varies with quality.
5) How will I receive my puppy? I don't live anywhere near you.
We fly American Airlines Priority Parcel or Delta Pets First. We
also hand deliver to some areas of the midwest. We ship to every state in the USA (except Hawaii) and also to Canada.
We won't ship to Hawaii because they have a 6 month quarantine period where the puppy is held in a state run kennel. We don't
want to subject our puppies to 6 months of no family. Living in a cage for 6 months is not for our puppies.
If Hawaii changes
this law, someone PLEASE let us know.
6) How much does it cost to ship the puppy?
Normally from $250-300, depending on the size of
the breed. This includes: registration papers, shot and worming record, health guarantee, health certificate from the vet, a
few days sample of the food we use, crate and airfare. In some cases, the price listed includes shipping, unless otherwise indicated.
When shipping to Alaska or northern Canada, it will cost $300.
7) What types of payment do you accept?
We gladly accept PayPal (please
add their 3% fee), personal check or postal money order. Western Union is also an option, but is expensive. You can send
a Western Untion to Salem or Rolla, Missouri. If you use this method, please call us with the tracking number. If
you mail a personal check, send a MoneyGram, money order or Western Union, please e-mail us and let us know so we can put your puppy
on hold until we receive it.
8) Do you offer a contract or health guarantee?
Yes. Click here
9) Will my puppy be house trained
when I get it?
We will begin the potty training process. It will be up to you to finish the job. Very few 8-9 week old
puppies have mastered this process. Besides, even if we train your puppy completely, he will have no idea where the bathroom
is at your place. Our tip: BE CONSISTENT. Accidents are your fault, not the puppy's.
10) Will my puppy have had his shots?
Yes, all our puppies are kept current on their vaccinations and wormings (for their age) and
will come with their shot and worming record. Simply take this to your vet and they will be able to keep your puppy on schedule.
11) What brand of food do you feed or recommend?
Royal Canin, Taste of the Wild (see Recommended Products
page) or Bil-Jac.
We will send a sample of our feed for you to use until you can purchase some. If you choose to use a different brand, please
mix the portion we send 50-50 with your selected brand. When that is gone, your puppy will be transitioned to your food and
may eat it without getting sick. We DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES recommend store brand dog foods. They are very poor
quality, have a lot of sawdust (called cellulose fiber) in them and poor quality meats. Any sickness or skin problems that results
from feeding store brand feed will not be covered in our health guarantee.
12) What treat/reward do you recommend for house training?
makes a dog treat that comes in a small milk carton type container. This is probably the ONLY small treat on the market that
will not upset your puppy's digestive system. Break the treats into smaller pieces when using them. Puppies are SMART
(especially the ones we raise) and may not eat their dog food, holding out for a treat. You will find that the Bolognese and
the Bolo-Noodle thrive on seeing that their behavior makes you happy. Vigorous verbal praise may be all the reward that they
13) How long do I have to wait after I select my puppy?
Depends on how old your puppy is when you select him/her. We
cannot (by law) ship a puppy before it is 8 weeks old. We are usually able to ship the puppy within one week of receiving the
final payment--presuming it is 8 weeks of age, and the puppy vet checks OK and is large enough to travel. A very tiny breed
we may choose to hold back a week or so. This will be at our discretion, and will be agreed upon ahead of time. If we
keep them back, we will send you updated photos while you wait.
14) Can I make payments?
Yes, we will accept payments as long as the
puppy is paid for in full 10 days before the agreed upon shipping or delivery date.
15) Will you hold my puppy for me beyond the scheduled shipping date if I have a family emergency that pops up or a scheduled wedding
or vacation, etc?
Yes as long as you let me know as soon as possible. I charge $25 a week.
16) Jarbeth's Kennel offers
to microchip my puppy. Does my dog NEED this?
The chip is not for everybody. If you live in an urban area where the
puppy might get lost or stolen, a chip is a good idea. If your dog shows up in a shelter or dog pound, a simple scan will immediately
identify him/her as yours. No questions asked.
If you live in a rural area where dog theft is virtually unknown and neighbors
understand that dogs will roam around and that is not a problem, then you probably don't need a chip. However, for a more expensive
dog, if someone accused you of stealing their dog, or thinks your dog is theirs, a chip is also proof of ownership.
The toughest issue
is if you live somewhere in the middle, in a more suburban area. I can only tell you what the pros and cons are and let you
decide if you would like a chip for your puppy. Some who raise show dogs chip them because of their value. Some who are
so emotionally tied to their pet that they can't imagine life without them will chip them to identify the dog faster IF it ever shows
up again. Some people chip their dog just because it is a cool conversation piece, a new technology. And for every reason
to chip there are equally good reasons not to. Animal advocates say that it hurts the animal (yes, it is inserted with a needle).
Some people say that it is just the next step toward having BIG BROTHER in our midst, desensitizing people to idea of micro-chipping
children, which is a WHOLE other, although related, can of worms.
What the chip does not do is track your dogs movements by satellite
if he's lost. It is not a GPS. The chip will benefit you if your dog later turns up at a vets office (if he's stolen)
or animal shelter (if he's lost). They can scan the dog and know that the dog is indeed registered to you and rightfully yours
if you choose to reclaim it.
We offer this service to our customers for a lot less than they can get it from your local
vet. We are not endorsing chipping over not chipping, just giving you an idea how it may be beneficial for you or your pet.
The option is yours. We offer to chip your puppy for $50 as a service to you. If you decide to have your dog micro-chipped,
please register the chip number using the contact info below AND with your local veterinarian. The necessary information
will come with your puppy. If you do not register your puppy's chip number, and the puppy is stolen we will be contacted instead
of you so you need to register your puppy.
17) How often should we bathe our puppy?
As often as you wish IF you are using a quality shampoo and conditioner, but you do not need
to bathe a dog more than once a week (unless they have wallowed in something smelly). Dog shampoos are priced higher than necessary.
Use Johnson's baby shampoo and a good quality conditioner/cream rinse (the kind made for humans is fine) then blow dry the puppy and
while combing him/her out, lightly powder the puppy with Johnson's baby powder. This baby powder will coat the hair and will
keep the hair looking nice and clean for a longer period of time. Please note that baby powder irritates the skin of some dogs.
If your puppy has dry skin or rashes after bathing, it may be the baby powder. Discontinue use if this is the case.
18) Do you offer Tea-Cup puppies?
Short answer: No.
Long answer: T-Cup describes only a Chihuahua that is smaller
than the Chihuahua standard ("Toy" describes only a small Poodle, "Sleeve" describes a Pekingese that is smaller than the standard,
and "Imperial" describes a Shih Tzu that is smaller than the standard). Granted, the Yorkshire Terrier (for instance) is called
a toy breed because it is small (4.5 to 7.5 lbs is the standard), but there is no designation for a Yorkie that is smaller than the
standard. Many unscrupulous breeders designate their small breeds Toy or T-cup in order to jack the price up--because a dog
that is smaller than the standard generally commands a higher price. If one of our puppies is smaller than the standard, we
simply state as much. Yes, the price may be higher, but our integrity as a breeder will not permit us to sell a puppy as a T-Cup
or Toy, unless it is a Chihuahua or Poodle (respectively).
Not all breeders are this scrupulous.
19) You will not sell some of your puppies unless they are spayed or neutered. Why? What is the benefit of spaying and
For all dogs, early spay/neuter means a better behaved dog, and makes them less likely to roam. Sex specific
Males: If you wait a year to have him neutered, he will have become an adult and he will be peeing on everything you
own. Marking his territory will have become a habit by the time he is a year of age so even if you neuter him later, he will
continue to do it. With pediatric neutering he will not learn the adult behaviors that males are noted for. We spay/neuter
all of our puppies before you get them. If you plan to breed him and THEN neuter him, he will have become a "man" and you will
never be able to discourage him from marking his territory afterward.
With males, you can have a good pet or a breeder, one or the
other. If he will be an outside dog, this won't be an issue, but most folks do not want an inside dog peeing on everything they
Also, testicular cancer is the #2 cancer in male dogs. Neutering eliminates this probability.
Females: For every heat cycle
that she goes through and she is not bred, you increase her chance of cancer in the female organs by 10%. Since an adult will
go through 2 heat cycles a year normally, that is 20% chance increase every year. Is this a risk you want to take? We
recently took a phone call from a man wanting to purchase a Bolognese because his had recently died (at 8 years of age). I offered
him my condolences and asked if she had died from cancer of the sex organs.
He said, "Yes, why do you ask?"
I asked him, "You didn't have her spayed, did you?"
"No we didn't, why?
"And she was strictly a pet, you never used
her for breeding?"
"No, we didn't."
True story. Ignorance may be bliss--until you have to bury your pet. Animal
sex organs were designed to be used, frequently, at EVERY heat cycle. A healthy female dog comes into heat twice a
year. Man, in all his infinite wisdom (stupidity) thinks he can ignore this natural cycle because he thinks spaying/neutering
is cruel, unnecessary or too expensive. Ultimately, the breeder was responsible for this travesty, and every veterinarian
this man ever took his beloved Bolognese to is equally responsible. The breeder and/or the vets should have had the decency
to inform this pet owner. Customers tend to trust "the experts" and in this case, this man's pet died of an expensive, horribly
painful and totally preventable death at the hands of these so-called professionals. A healthy Bolognese should live
to 14-16 years of age. If you plan to breed her a time or two THEN spay her, understand that she will pee to mark her territory
for the rest of her life (once you are done with your little breeding experiment). Once she is a breeding adult, you will not
be able to persuade her that she isn't.
Now you can make an informed decision. Pets happen.
20) My vet says he does not recommend that I spay or neuter a dog until it is 4-6 months of age. Why do you spay/neuter so young?
line: your vet does not want to do the spay/neuter early because it is less expensive, or is afraid to because the organs to be removed
are very small and it is difficult to do the surgery. Waiting until the dog is older means larger organs and an easier job for
the vet. However, there is nothing scientific behind their reluctance to spay/neuter at a very young age.
The arguments in favor
of pediatric spay/neuter:
* Overpopulation and the resulting neglect, suffering, euthanasia -- early-age spay/neuter completely eliminates
the possibility of unwanted litters.
* It avoids heat cycles completely: unwelcome 'visitors' fighting on the lawn, females howling
* Neutered males are less likely to roam and fight, thus preventing injuries, spread of disease, and costly veterinary
expenses. It has been estimated that 80% of dogs killed by cars and 80% of Feline AIDS cases are unneutered males.
pets -- neutered pets rarely spray mark, roam and fight. 85% of bites involve unneutered dogs.
* Healthier pets -- neutered
males don't have the testicular cancer or prostate problems common in intact dogs. Females spayed before their first heat cycle
have 96% less breast cancer. Their risk of uterine infection is dramatically decreased, not to mention the many complications
associated with pregnancy, whelping or raising a litter.
* It's safe -- the mortality rate is lower than that of the standard 6-9
month sterilization procedure.
* It's less traumatic for the pet -- young animals heal faster and are lower surgical risks than older
animals who may be obese, in heat, pregnant, or ill. Young animals generally wake up faster after anesthesia.
Many humane shelters
across the country now endorse spaying and neutering at the time of adoption. If yours didn't, then please ask your vet to perform
a pediatric or early-age spay/neuter (also sometimes called juvenile or prepubertal spay/neuter) on your new pet. They should
be able to address any questions or concerns you may have. If not, send them to the links at the end of this response.
No conclusive controlled studies have ever been done to determine the best age to neuter dogs and cats. On the other hand, current
research does show that spaying before the first heat prevents the development of mammary gland tumors. Since females can go
into heat as young as four months of age, they should be spayed before then to receive that protection. Early-age, or pediatric,
neutering is currently performed on animals who are six to eight weeks of age and who weigh at least two pounds.
From the outset,
veterinarians expressed concern about the long- and short-term safety of operating on such young animals. Short-term safety
was documented in 1993 when doctors at Angell Memorial Hospital in Boston published protocols for safe surgery and anesthesia in the
Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association. Other studies have since confirmed their conclusions, and in December
2000, JAVMA reported that researchers at Texas A & M University found no increase in physical or behavioral problems in cats for
at least three years postoperatively. Veterinarians have been safely performing the surgeries for shelters since the 1980s,
adding to the growing body of supportive anecdotal information.
There is a lot of documentation to support spaying/neutering at a young age. It would appear that Jarbeth's Kennel is just a
little ahead of the curve. Some studies seem to link incontinence with early spaying. Many vets read only PART of the
study and ignore the evidence.
Since the publication of this article in 2001, additional studies were conducted by Spain and Scarlett
at Cornell University, which established the long-term safety of pediatric neutering. Thousands of animals were looked at for
the study, some of them 11 years after neutering—and the only major concern was that female puppies may be more likely to experience
urinary incontinence if spayed before three months of age.
Unfortunately, despite the new studies, the controversy
continues—and many veterinarians are still very hesitant to try pediatric neutering. Concerns about obesity, stunted growth,
underdevelopment of secondary sex characteristics, behavioral problems and increased incidence of both lower urinary tract disease
and urinary incontinence have been addressed in the veterinary literature and found to be unwarranted. Any differences that
have been found appear to have no clinical significance, or occur regardless of the age at neutering.
The American Veterinary Medical
Association and the American Animal Hospital Association are just two professional organizations that support pediatric neutering.
Veterinarians at the ASPCA have been neutering all shelter animals who weigh at least two pounds before adoption. Yet despite
the research, testimonials, anecdotal information and endorsements, the controversy continues.
Ironically, veterinarians who perform
pediatric surgery insist that it is faster and less stressful to the animal than surgery at the conventional age. There is less
body fat to contend with, bleeding is minimal and the patients are awake much sooner after surgery. They can be fed a small
meal and sent home the same day. No special surgical equipment is needed. If the procedure is performed when the last
vaccination is given at three to four months of age, owner compliance is increased. Most vwas deciding to try something different.
The best part is that everyone benefits. Veterinarians who at first were reluctant to try pediatric neutering now find that
they prefer it—the hardest part was deciding to try something different. The best part is that everyone benefits.
three paragraphs, written by the ASPCA’s Lila Miller, DVM, Vice President, Veterinary Outreach, originally appeared in the Spring
2001 issue of ASPCA Animal Watch, and was updated to include more recent studies in August 2006.
The Controversy is Over: Prepubertal
Neutering is the Surgery of Choice [an excerpt]
By Jeff Young, DVM
The ideal age for neutering our companion animal friends is 8-16
weeks. Prepubertal neutering has been ‘controversial’ for years. Because of this controversy, a lot of academic research,
independent studies and anecdotal evidence has accumulated.
The University of Florida conducted the first truly controlled study in
1991 comparing neutering at 7 weeks vs. 7 months of age. Texas A&M and the University of Florida have looked at urethral
diameters in prepubertal vs. conventionally neutered animals.
The University of Colorado has provided very useful anesthetic protocols
and the University of Minnesota has reviewed the literature extensively with regard to prepubertal neutering.
The nineties produced a lot of data with which to move forward. Just as the scientific literature has grown, so has the anecdotal
information coming from humane societies, private veterinary practices, spay/neuter clinics and owners of pets neutered prepubertally.
The veterinary profession has for decades made 6-8 months the recommended age for neutering. There is no scientific reason for
this age selection; it has simply become a ‘tradition.’ The conservative nature of the veterinary profession has made change
hard. We must demand from any veterinarian we support, that they embrace prepubertal neutering as the standard. We must
be willing to educate our veterinary friends and boycott those who are. We do have years of anecdotal evidence that these prepube
animals are leaner, lankier, and live longer healthier lives.
With regard to urinary incontinence, the literature is in conflict and
inconclusive. Studies place incontinence from 4% to 20% of neutered female dogs and 0.4 to 8% in unaltered female dogs. What
is clear is that large breed dogs are more commonly affected than small breed dogs. Many factors including breed, thyroid level,
allergies and level of obesity have not been fully evaluated. Blaming urinary incontinence on lack of estrogen is not logical
or fully supported by research. Why is it that pregnant bitches don’t have increased rates of incontinence, given they have
extremely low estrogen? It is possible that obesity (controllable) and hypothyroidism (treatable) may prove to be primary factors
in urinary incontinence. At this time it is clear that prepubertally neutered females actually have a lower incidence of incontinence
than those neutered at the ‘traditional’ age. Also, the overall benefits of neutering are much greater than the alternative.
Their own national organization (AVMA) has endorsed the practice of prepubertal neutering since 1993.
Prepubertal dogs never
develop ovarian or uterine tumors, get pyometra or go into heat. Mammary cancer (the #1 cancer in female dogs) is almost eliminated
with prepubertal neutering. Testicular cancer is the #2 cancer in male dogs and a full 60% of unaltered dogs over the age of
5 develop prostate problems. Perianal tumors are the most common tumor in male dogs and are directly correlated with testosterone.
The research, literature and anecdotal evidence are quite clear. Prepubertal neutering has many more positive benefits than
negative. Prepubertal neutering must become a major tool in the fight against companion animal overpopulation. Prepubertal
neutered animals are just healthier, happier pets that will make any adoption program more successful.
Here are some links for more
21) What if I don't want my dog spayed or neutered?
The only reason to keep a dog intact is if you are going to enter the dog in the
show ring where they must be intact to compete or if you plan to use the dog in a professional breeding program. We do
not sell breeding dogs. If you are interested in purchasing an AKC show dog, please contact us for pricing. If you simply
want a pet, but wish to wait in order to have a litter someday, you will have to purchase elsewhere. We believe in pediatric
spay/neuter for the reasons listed above.
There are some who do not like to alter animals because they think it is cruel or expensive,
or unnecessary. However, animals were designed to make babies at a certain rate. When that natural cycle is interrupted
by man, problems occur. Nature is what it is. Spaying is not cruel, what IS cruel and expensive is permitting an animal
to get sick and die when it is preventable by using common sense. We are concerned about the well being of the puppies we produce,
we are not concerned about meeting our customers' level of training, tradition or understanding. The customer is not always
right. At Jarbeth's Kennel, we are not willing to let an uninformed customer do our puppies harm. If you disagree with
our policy, you have the right to shop elsewhere.
22) Tell me about the neutered male.
A neutered male makes a better
pet than any female, every day of the week. This is a general rule for all breeds. We recommend a neutered male for families
because a male will love everybody. As a general rule, a female (spayed or not) will prefer only one family member and merely
tolerate everyone else, and makes a great pet for a single woman or retired couple.
23) We have another pet in the home. How should we introduce the new puppy?
Excellent question. Whether you purchase from
Jarbeth's Kennel or not, here is some invalueable advice.
1- If you buy from a seller in the same area, arrange to have your
pet and the new puppy meet in a neutral place. A professional breeder may refuse to do this because if you choose not to buy
the puppy, the puppy may then bring home any number of diseases or parasites picked up at the meeting spot, like parvo, fleas,
etc. This is a VALID concern, and a responsible breeder has every right to refuse a meeting such as this. A garage breeder
or a friend or family member with a new litter may not have these concerns. If your pet and the new puppy get along, consider
purchasing the puppy.
2- If purchasing from a seller that is not in your area, follow these instructions. Do NOT initially
put the new puppy on the floor anywhere near your established pet's bed, or food and water dishes. You will force territorialism.
The puppy may be growled at and frightened, or worse, bitten and perhaps killed. Put the new puppy in crate with his/her
own food and water dishes in a bathroom or other small room. Go into the room several times a day, close the door and let
the puppy out. Stay in the room with the new puppy. Your established pet and new puppy will be able to smell each
other under the door and in this way can be exposed to one another without endangering the puppy. Do this for no less than 3
days before introducing the new puppy to your established pet face to face.
3- When first introducing your established pet face
to face, do not do so near the established pet food or water dishes or bed. Your established pet should be on a leash or you
should have another person to assist you. If possible have your pets meet in a neutral place, at a park or a family member
or friend's house. If this seems too extreme, put the puppy in the crate and open the door and permit your
established pet to see and smell the puppy through the crate wires.
This advice may seem extreme and admittedly it
is designed to preventy a worst case scenario. You know your pet. We don't, and we don't want anything to happen
to your new puppy. In this case, hope for the best but prepare for the worst. Simply put, we implore you to protect your
new puppy. You may be the puppy's new parents, but we are the grandparents. This is a package deal. Buy a puppy
from Jarbeth's Kennel and get instant life-time free advice from the grandparents. >grin<
again for your interest in our puppies.